The Eleventh Season
When the alarm rang around 5:30 am, it seemed awfully early and
too quick for good reason. Normally, we do not leave for China until
late November or early December. Yet this year, it was only October
22nd. More immediately, we had just spent an enjoyable evening as
guests at the Museum's annual Women's Board Ball. And it was only a few
hours earlier that we returned our dress attire to the deep end of the
closet and the last items were packed in the suitcases that we planned
to lug on the long journey across the Pacific.
This year, our Sino-American team begins our second decade of
collaborative research and systematic regional archaeological survey in
the Rizhao area of eastern Shandong Province, and some of the
arrangements are different than ever before. To begin with, we will
start our time in Shandong Province with a conference that in part has
been arranged to celebrate the ten seasons of field investigations that
we have completed in this part of China. To arrive in Rizhao, where the
conference will be held, we will not stop in Beijing this year. Rather,
our flight plan will carry us from Chicago to Beijing to Qingdao by air,
followed by a two-hour car trip south to Rizhao.
Arriving at the airport on these annual trips to China, I always
am thankful that living in Chicago we are able to fly non-stop to
Beijing. While a 14-hour air trip is no picnic, it sure beats spreading
that journey into segments punctuated by long layovers and/or the worry
that one's connections will be missed. This year, with warm weather in
Chicago and China, we were fortunate, having only a few hour delay
(waiting for our connecting flight) in Beijing. Overall, it was more
than a full-day's trip, meaning that we did not reach Rizhao until
almost 11 pm Sunday evening including the 13 hour time difference from
Chicago (this will increase to a 14 hour gap once the clocks 'fall back'
in the Midwest U.S.).
Generally in recent years, when we travel to China, we move
quickly into our regional settlement pattern survey, which happens to be
a great cure-all for jetlag. Walking all day in the sun seems to help
re-set my body clock rapidly. Since this year, our time in Rizhao has
begun with a scholarly conference honoring in part the completion of 10
years of research by our Sino-American team, my body has been slower to
adjust. After several days, I still am finding it hard to stay up beyond
9 pm and sleep beyond 3-4 am in the morning. Hopefully, this will be
rectified as soon as we begin the field study.
Although I have limited experience, large Chinese academic
conferences seem to me much like those in the West. Lots of academic
papers, but the real intellectual action often takes place in the
corridors and eating venues where people have a chance to discuss and
exchange information. One difference in China is that there seems to be
more formalized ritual ceremonies that start and begin the meeting, as
well as formal banquets, which punctuate the conference calendar.
On a personal note, it is very gratifying for Linda and me to see
the number of Chinese scholars who have initiated systematic
archaeological surveys over the last decade. When we got involved on
this project with our Museum colleague and China specialist, Dr. Anne
Underhill, one of our personal goals beyond our specific Sino-American
project and its research aims was to promote the advent of
archaeological surveys across China. This now seems clearly to be
happening, and the results are starting to influence the ways in which
researchers envision the past and frame research agendas.
Because my Chinese language skills are frustratingly poor
(something driven home to me when I sit through papers and feebly
endeavor to dialogue with local colleagues), I try to pick up a few new
words each day. The Chinese language is truly fascinating and I imagine
that if I were younger I might try to immerse myself in it. As a
consequence, with each dispatch, I will pass along one or two words,
although these presentations are simplified lacking the tonal
information that is a key part of pronunciation. Today's word is "hui
yi," which means "conference." 'Hui' means "assembly" while 'yi' refers
to "opinion."
Caption: One of the posters displayed at the academic conference
in Rizhao. It highlights the studies of our international team.
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