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Field Dispatch 7.
Monday, 16 December 2002

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Last days of this years survey

Mapping sites like Dong Hai Yu and Xi Si are fun and interesting because they generally have high densities of surface artifacts and because you get to spend the bulk of the day in site. But, for the most part, such really large ancient settlements have been recorded previously (either by local archaeologists or regional government officials) before we map and systematically record the size of such sites for the first time.

One of the joys of survey is to find significant sites that nobody (except perhaps local farmers) had prior knowledge of. On Friday, we found two such sites. One was a Longshan period occupation of roughly three to five hectares that we discovered on a low piedmont ridge a kilometer or so outside the nearest modern village. The second was a Zhou (as well as Han) period site that we found much higher in the piedmont near where the steep rocky cliffs of Kui Shan mountain lift off from the long ridges that lead up to it. The latter site, which we measured at roughly three hectares, was tucked between a reservoir, an abandoned brick kiln, and active quarries. It was spread over agricultural fields occupied by dry corn stalks and nascent winter wheat plants as well as a small fruit tree orchard now devoid of fruit. We had to really scour for sherds hidden by vegetation, but eventually came up with a significant number of pieces.

The Longshan site was found mostly on a low ridge that was terraced into a series of cleared, flat fields that were stepped from one to the next. A farmer trudged back and forth across a neighboring field with the horse-drawn plow. This site turned out to be fun because in addition to lots of pottery we also found five polished stone tools.

Excluding the visitors, we have had six mainstays on the survey this year. Anne, Linda, and I represent The Field Museum, while Professors Fang and Luan, as well as an Archaeology Department graduate student (Ms. Chen), are from Shandong University. Due to teaching commitments, Professor Luan could only participate for about ten days, while everyone else has worked pretty much the full time.

Over the last few days, we have had a number of other memorable experiences. We finally climbed to the top of rocky Kui Shan mountain, although our view was somewhat obscured by haze. By the time we hiked up the rocky promontory, we had walked around pretty much all its sides and criss-crossed the ridges that descend from its peak. Yesterday, I stopped to photograph two women cooking in an alley behind their house as I walked through the village of Da Gu Zhen. After watching them for a few minutes, they handed me a freshly cooked jian bing (a round thin bread that resembles a giant wheat tortilla). I reciprocated by giving them a handful of chocolates in return.

Today (Monday), we finished our survey for the season and were finding surface sherds until the end. I was surprised that we found so many sites over the last two days as we practically were walking in alluvial sand, tucked between the large Fu Tan River and the sea. As it worked out, our final pass ended at a site, a thin scatter of Han and Eastern Zhou period sherds, so it looked as if we would end on a high note.

But, as we prepared to return to Rizhao, Mr. Zhang's cab, which had so reliably carted us around from back (dirt) roads to highways during this season (and previous ones) experienced engine trouble and would not move. Fortunately, we ended our last day early in the midday warmth and day light, and not too far from Rizhao. Mr. Zhang was able to use his cell phone to call two of his cab-driving friends to come retrieve us and also to tow his car back to town.

I probably would not have anticipated it when I first started surveying two decades ago, but the cell phone has become part of our survey repertoire in China. We have used it when we cannot locate a wayward surveyor, and also to call Mr. Zhang when due to range of factors he or we did not end up where anticipated. Nevertheless, it remains a bit strange for me to look up and see one of my Chinese colleagues scouring the ground for sherds, while he speaks on his cell phone. Earlier this season, Fang Hui actually found a site as he was walking to regroup with the rest of us, while talking on his cell phone, and that site promptly became known in our conversations as the "cell phone site."

With the conclusion of the fieldwork part of our survey, we leave by bus for Jinan (home of Shandong University and capital of Shandong Province) tomorrow late in the morning. There, later this week, I will start teaching as a Visiting Professor until the end of this year. We also will complete the field analysis stage of our work. Before leaving, we will say goodbye to our colleagues at the Rizhao Museum and local officials in the traditional manner, by attending a banquet tonight, a few hours from now.

The word for the day is "jian bing," a flat local bread that sure tastes better hot off the griddle than cold (and often machine-made) when served in restaurants. A "bing" is a 'round thing,' while "jian" refers to 'grilling or frying over a fire without oil.' <> <> <>

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