Last days of this years survey
Mapping sites like Dong Hai Yu and Xi Si are fun and interesting
because they generally have high densities of surface artifacts and because
you get to spend the bulk of the day in site. But, for the most part, such
really large ancient settlements have been recorded previously (either by
local archaeologists or regional government officials) before we map and
systematically record the size of such sites for the first time.
One of the joys of survey is to find significant sites that nobody
(except perhaps local farmers) had prior knowledge of. On Friday, we found
two such sites. One was a Longshan period occupation of roughly three to
five hectares that we discovered on a low piedmont ridge a kilometer or so
outside the nearest modern village. The second was a Zhou (as well as Han)
period site that we found much higher in the piedmont near where the steep
rocky cliffs of Kui Shan mountain lift off from the long ridges that lead up
to it. The latter site, which we measured at roughly three hectares, was
tucked between a reservoir, an abandoned brick kiln, and active quarries.
It was spread over agricultural fields occupied by dry corn stalks and
nascent winter wheat plants as well as a small fruit tree orchard now devoid
of fruit. We had to really scour for sherds hidden by vegetation, but
eventually came up with a significant number of pieces.
The Longshan site was found mostly on a low ridge that was terraced
into a series of cleared, flat fields that were stepped from one to the
next. A farmer trudged back and forth across a neighboring field with the
horse-drawn plow. This site turned out to be fun because in addition to
lots of pottery we also found five polished stone tools.
Excluding the visitors, we have had six mainstays on the survey this
year. Anne, Linda, and I represent The Field Museum, while Professors Fang
and Luan, as well as an Archaeology Department graduate student (Ms. Chen),
are from Shandong University. Due to teaching commitments, Professor Luan
could only participate for about ten days, while everyone else has worked
pretty much the full time.
Over the last few days, we have had a number of other memorable
experiences. We finally climbed to the top of rocky Kui Shan mountain,
although our view was somewhat obscured by haze. By the time we hiked up
the rocky promontory, we had walked around pretty much all its sides and
criss-crossed the ridges that descend from its peak. Yesterday, I stopped
to photograph two women cooking in an alley behind their house as I walked
through the village of Da Gu Zhen. After watching them for a few minutes,
they handed me a freshly cooked jian bing (a round thin bread that resembles
a giant wheat tortilla). I reciprocated by giving them a handful of
chocolates in return.
Today (Monday), we finished our survey for the season and were
finding surface sherds until the end. I was surprised that we found so many
sites over the last two days as we practically were walking in alluvial
sand, tucked between the large Fu Tan River and the sea. As it worked out,
our final pass ended at a site, a thin scatter of Han and Eastern Zhou
period sherds, so it looked as if we would end on a high note.
But, as we prepared to return to Rizhao, Mr. Zhang's cab, which had
so reliably carted us around from back (dirt) roads to highways during this
season (and previous ones) experienced engine trouble and would not move.
Fortunately, we ended our last day early in the midday warmth and day light,
and not too far from Rizhao. Mr. Zhang was able to use his cell phone to
call two of his cab-driving friends to come retrieve us and also to tow his
car back to town.
I probably would not have anticipated it when I first started
surveying two decades ago, but the cell phone has become part of our survey
repertoire in China. We have used it when we cannot locate a wayward
surveyor, and also to call Mr. Zhang when due to range of factors he or we
did not end up where anticipated. Nevertheless, it remains a bit strange
for me to look up and see one of my Chinese colleagues scouring the ground
for sherds, while he speaks on his cell phone. Earlier this season, Fang
Hui actually found a site as he was walking to regroup with the rest of us,
while talking on his cell phone, and that site promptly became known in our
conversations as the "cell phone site."
With the conclusion of the fieldwork part of our survey, we leave by
bus for Jinan (home of Shandong University and capital of Shandong Province)
tomorrow late in the morning. There, later this week, I will start teaching
as a Visiting Professor until the end of this year. We also will complete
the field analysis stage of our work. Before leaving, we will say goodbye
to our colleagues at the Rizhao Museum and local officials in the
traditional manner, by attending a banquet tonight, a few hours from now.
The word for the day is "jian bing," a flat local bread that sure
tastes better hot off the griddle than cold (and often machine-made) when
served in restaurants. A "bing" is a 'round thing,' while "jian" refers to
'grilling or frying over a fire without oil.'
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