Challenged by the Elements
After almost a week of near perfect weather for survey, we have had
to deal with morning fog, rain, and now cold and wind from the north.
Tuesday, it rained all day so we stayed indoors and turned to the analysis
of the artifact collections that we had made during our first week here.
The next day, the ground was still very wet so we took the morning to visit
collections at the Rizhao Museum. We were shown excavated materials (whole
ceramic vessels and jade ornaments) from the central site of our study
region, Liangchengzhen, as well as elaborately decorated bronze containers
from the site of Gu He Ai. The latter materials are especially important
this year as we mapped a small, peripheral piece of Gu He Ai on one side of
the Gu He River last week, and will get back to finish mapping and
collecting the site tomorrow afternoon or Saturday.
By late morning Wednesday the sky had cleared sufficiently and the
ground dried enough that we were able to resume our survey. Despite a
dramatic turn toward winter, we also were able to get a full day in today.
We were all worried this morning as sleet gently fell on our cab as we
waited to start at the southern edge of Rizhao. Fortunately after a brief
delay, the falling moisture ceased, and we were able to go to work.
Although we did not find many sites on Wednesday or Thursday as we walked
mostly through low-lying alluvial land, we did discover a significant
Longshan period settlement each day. Both clusters of Longshan pottery were
situated on low piedmont rises above the flat bottomland where rice and
winter wheat are now grown.
Even when we do not find many sites, walking through the Shandong
countryside is both informative and fascinating. For example, earlier this
week we saw three women weaving stands of cane into thin beams for making
roofs of houses. At other times, we have witnessed noodle-making, ceramic
production, the mending of fishnets, rabbit hunting, among many other
activities. We also see a wide variety of agricultural strategies and crop
regimes, many dependent on different irrigation techniques. The
astonishment (and sometimes amusement) of local people as they watch us
tramp through their fields and orchards is at times humorous. Yet once in a
while, we have almost caused accidents as bicycle riders turn their heads
and crane their necks to see us and lose their balance or control. Over the
years, I have become more and more cognizant of trying not to catch people
unawares, and of being aware that you are almost always the center of
someone's gaze and attention. Sundays generally attract the largest crowds
as students are out of school and seem to have time to follow us (sometimes
in groups) from one side of a village to the other.
For lunch, we look for restaurants that are close to where we are
surveying. Consequently, we often pick out small rural places, where they
have told us that we are the first foreigners ever to set foot in the place.
Nevertheless, we have been fortunate in generally finding good food. In
fact, I have usually found that I enjoy the lunches that we eat in rural
settings during our fieldwork better than the suppers that we have in the
restaurants near our hotel in Rizhao. Perhaps, that is because by lunch I
always have built up a hearty appetite!
The word for the day is "fang dian" which means 'restaurant.' "Fang"
is 'to put something on the table.' "Dian" is the character for 'store' or
'inn.'
<> <> <>
Archived Dispatches >>